1. Dulap: this comes from the Persian ewe and is usually an indication of fat localization.  It is not desirable and spoils the shape of the ideal head.  Look at the ideal head in a triangle.  Can you see that a triangle around a Dulap head doesn’t fit?
	2. Short head: if you put the short head on the ideal body you will realize that the match doesn’t suit type.  The definition says “strong and long.”
	3. Heavy horns: the heavy horns come from the Dorset Horn ram.  The definition is clear that heavy horns are undesirable but permissible.  There are breeders that do like horns on rams.  Some also say that this is a sign of masculinity and fertility.  We must however respect the definition and realize that it can also hurt other sheep in fighting or get entangled in fences or shrubs.
	4. Long head: the definition say long and strong but be careful not too long as it will look like a horse head and it doesn’t fit an acceptable type.
	5. Flat nose: this is something I have seen a few times and can assure you that it looks awful.  It looks as if it has run into a wall.
	6. Flat crown: the flat crown or flat head which is seen more on ewes is not desirable and hampers type.  We do like a crown on the ram’s head.  It makes it look more masculine.  A nice smooth head for the ewe.
	7. Plain head: if this is the head of a ram then it is a cull.  Be careful not to mix up this head with a young head.
	8. Hollow head: be careful that you don’t see a ram with an overdone Roman nose and a crown as a ram with a hollow forehead.  A hollow forehead is a definite hollow portion above the eyes and you will recognize it when you see it.
	9. Young head: here you can see a young head with character but no secondary development.  Good feeding in rams enhance secondary (pleats) development in rams.  This is part of the ennobled head as seen in the ideal head, and is desirable.
	10. Overshot jaw: this is also called the fish mouth and is a high in-breeding cull fault.  The teeth must touch the upper gum.  Where the animal is busy shedding its front teeth the adjacent teeth can be used.  Also be careful that you do not over discriminate when they are shedding, as the bottom gum is usually swollen and gives the impression that it is overshooting.  Under intensive conditions a overshot jaw can create problems when teeth grow too long and will alter cut the membrane between the lip and the top jaw.
	11. Undershot jaw: this is also called the parrot jaw.  A 3mm short mismatch is allowed.  The reason is that the teeth still make contact with the gum not to interfere with the grabbing action when eating.  The tendency is to work towards a perfect fit, as only a 3mm (1/8 inch) is allowed at this stage.
	12. Weak bottom jaw: remember this is where the factory starts.  This mouth must supply this animal for years with food to produce and this jaw will have some work to do.  On the other hand be careful that the bottom jaw is not too heavy again?  Look at the ideal and you will see the balance.  Once your eye is adjusted to the ideal you will notice that small things like the influence type.
	13. Strong nose: let us move to the ideal and look at it from the front and the side.  A strong Roman nose with secondary development, broad, as in the next illustration, is the ideal.  The dark development in front of the eyes is called the old man’s eye and is part of the respiratory system.  This is the ideal to fill the lungs with fresh air and to let the animal perform and do their work as expected.  Animals also use the nose part as a cooling system for his blood and this definition just compliment that aspect.
	14. Large eyes widely and protectively placed: it sounds strange that we even concentrate on this but this is part of the animals strong point (hardiness) to put his head in the thorn bush to graze and hence the word protectively.  You will also learn from experience that looking from the front, the eyes can sometimes be too close together, like a baboon, or they are protruding too much and will spoil type.  Note the good, broad nose.
	15.  Size of the ears: the ears should be a good size, which match the size of the head and body.  We also believe that a good size ear is a sign of a good temperament, which is essential for type.
	16.  Short dull black or white hair: we don’t want a woolly head or shiny head.  The head must look clean and well defined which you can only get with the ideal type of covering on the head.  A shiny head tends towards the Persian type and the woolly towards the Dorset Horn.
	17.  Dry head with no fat localization: we don’t want lumps behind the head or dulaps as this hampers the well-defined ennobled head which is an important part of type.

 

So let us summarize this and say that the head is an important part where the different aspects must complement each other to have a strong type of head.  Not bad for “part of the tripe” – 17 out of 100 aspects lie in the head for the judge to consider in judging the breed!

Forequarter and neck

We are entering the area carrying the meat and although this is a lesser quality meat section there are very important aspects, which can ruin the economics of your factory, if overlooked.

 

Definition

The neck should be of medium length, well fleshed, broad and well coupled to the forequarter.  Shoulders should be firm, broad and strong.  A moderate protrusion of the brisket beyond the shoulders, moderate width and good depth are the ideal.  Forelegs must be strong, straight and well placed with strong pasterns and hoofs not too widely split.  Weak pasterns and x-legs must be discriminated against according to degree.  Shoulders, which appear loose, brisket that slants up too sharply with no projection beyond the shoulders, crooked legs and weak walking ability are faulty.

 

Let us evaluate what it all means:

Neck – medium length, well fleshed, broad and well coupled.  We are going back to type where we said all must be in proportion.  We want a strong neck that flows desirably into the body.  For the ram, which will assure good flesh, we want it thicker and of medium length.  We don’t want a U-coupling as it not only looks ugly but it is part of a thin neck and loose shoulders.  Remember that you want a more feminine look in the ewe.  A slightly thinner and longer neck fits the ewe.  The head of the animal should be carried slightly forward rather than high.  The animal that carries the head high is usually the one that lacks temperament.  Therefore the neck must be of medium length well fleshed and must flow into the body.

 

Shoulders should be firm, broad and strong.  As the Dorper was bred in the first place exclusively for extensive conditions, we are very strict on walking ability.  There are no bone or muscle coupling on the shoulders, only membrane.  Be careful not to overlook loose shoulders.  This deficiency will not improve with exercise or age but will get worse.  Loose shoulders are detectable when the shoulder blade protrudes above the spine.  When the animal is walking, approaches you, or is turning, you will easily detect it.  In severe cases the shoulder blade becomes so loose that it looks as if you could slip your fingers in between the body and the shoulder.  If we say it must be broad it means the shoulders must not dip away towards the body but must flow into the body behind the shoulders.  The dip on the top will be explained in the next section.  Strong means there must be good muscling that can be seen on the forearm and the shoulder.

A moderate protrusion of the brisket beyond the shoulders, moderate width (between the legs) and good depth are the ideal.  This part of the forequarter is very important as it involves two very important aspects.  The protrusion of the brisket, as seen from the side, forms part of the leg placement, which is directly related to the walking ability of the animal.  A flat chest can be a sign that the leg placement is too far forward and will show up as lack of walking ability.  Rather a slightly prominent chest than no chest.  The moderate size in front also goes hand in hand with walking ability but also with easy lambing.  Experience will tell you that once the head and shoulders are out when an ewe gives birth, the rest just follows.  We don’t want to pull lambs out, have dead ewes and lambs because they can’t lamb.  On the other hand we must realize that the forequarter holds the lungs, heart etc. and we want breathing space.  Keep the forequarter a realistic size, which will let your factory produce without problems.

Forelegs must be strong, straight, and well placed with strong pasterns and hoofs not too widely split.  This animal was bred to walk and thrive under extensive conditions.  You will see animals walk with hoofs hooking on each other, cripple animals because of hollow, bandy or bowed legs and lying in the shade, staying behind etc.  Don’t blame the animal if they don’t flourish, as it was the manager’s fault not to cull them.  Rather a slight X-leg than bandy or crooked legs.  Sometimes you will find legs that tuck in completely.  If this is too severe, rather cull it.  Strong pasterns are essential as the whole body weight is carried and will increase (weight) with age and pregnancy in the ewe.  Also see the difference in long pasterns and short pasterns under hindquarter.  Hooves should not be too widely split, as in sandy conditions where there is no hard surface, the hooves will sag away and open even more and damage the tissue in between.  This will hamper walking ability.  Therefore let us sum this up and say weak pasterns, X-legs and split hoofs must be discriminated against according to degree.  Shoulders that appear loose, brisket that slants up too sharply with no projection, crooked legs, hollow legs, too wide forequarter, poor walking ability, all these qualities are faulty.

There must be a good depth in the forequarter.  This measures from the shoulder to the brisket.  Be careful not to allow the brisket to hang through between the forelegs.  This is recognized easily looking from the front.  A too prominent chest comes from the Persian ewe and can be an indication of fat localization.

 

Barrel:

Now we have come to the start of the more expensive meat area.  This is the chamber of our factory.  The head (mouth) take in material, the forequarter let the factory work (heart, lungs, etc.) and now the barrel part must convert this (sometimes bad) material into lovely, tender, juicy meat.  Quite an important part, I would say, but let us see why it is important.

 

Definition

The ideal is a long, deep, wide body; ribs well sprung loin broad and full.  The sheep must have a long, straight back and not have Devil’s grip.  A slight dip behind the shoulders is permissible.

 

This is quite a short definition for such a big area, but it says a lot.  Refer to our sketches.

Long, deep, wide body.  The length is measured from behind the shoulder blade (feel it) to the front of the hip.  I am sure you can see and taste the loin, rib and shoulder chops being cut out of this section.  Yes, the heart of the barbecue and of course length because if you stretch the animal you don’t put more ribs in it but more meat.  Be careful not to stretch it too much.  On the other hand, keep in mind that length of body is a great contributor to mass which means money at the end of the day!  This however is not all because we want it wide and deep too.  Wide, so that the loin muscle can grow and there is capacity for food and further back for development of the womb and the twin lambs.  Imagine on the ideal barrel the great rib and loin chops you can cut from this.  We also want depth measured as indicated in the illustration.  This goes hand in hand with spring of rib and type.  A cylindrical shape is not the ideal and we do discriminate against it especially as far as type is concerned.  Let’s have an underline that shows good depth.  We will also find the long straight back (good top line) and then the dip behind the shoulder.  You will notice that a slight dip is permissible and more so on a sheep with long body length.  Beware that there is no devils grip.  A devil’s grip goes hand in hand with loose shoulders and if you observe a dip with moving shoulder blades and you can put your finger into a slot when you feel it from the top then it becomes a cull.  In addition, you will find in animals, what we call a good “eye muscle.”  This is the rear part of the back where the loin starts.  This is a good indication of muscling, which will help to hold the animal together and ensure more meat on the chops.  Take note that muscle means meat.  While seeing this animal from the top, you will find loin broad and full that flows into the hindquarter.  One aspect, which is very important and is easily overlooked, is femininity and masculinity in animals.  Fertility is direct proportional to this characteristic and if we look at the sketches we want an overall female shape in the ewe and male shape in the ram.  Remember we don’t say that a ram or ewe will be infertile if not the ideal shape but let us try and keep the breed as found in nature.  There are another ten points to consider when judging.

 

Hindquarter:

We have come to the money making part of the animal and this is what this factory must produce.  The more meat we can create, without overlooking important aspects on the animal, the more money in our pockets.  The hindquarter contains only expensive meat and let us therefore appreciate what can be achieved.

Definition:  A long and wide rump is the ideal.  The inner and outer twist to be well-fleshed and deep in adult animals.  The hind legs must be strong and well placed with sturdy feet and strong pasterns.  Faulty pasterns must be discriminated against according to degree.  The hocks must be strong without a tendency to turn in or out.  Sickle, bandy- or perpendicular hocks are cull faults.

A long and wide rump:  This determines the size of the leg of lamb or leg of mutton.  As much as ½ the price of a lamb can be from the hindquarter with good meat qualities.  The inner and outer twist are areas where mutton is lost.  The muscle goes right down to the hock as in the illustration.  We talk about the “shin must not be lean” or “the catch point must be short.”  This is the part above the hock.  That is why we discriminate against a sloping rump or short round rump.  Can you imagine how much meat is lost on a sloping or short round rump?  The hind legs must be strong: just imagine what is the strain on the hind legs when a 110kg ram is covering a ewe.  Remember when the ram is penetrating the ewe there must be bounce in his legs and his feet must anchor itself well placed on the ground to do the job.  Besides this, with legs well placed, there is ample space for healthy testes to develop and hang.  The position of the legs is also in line with the pin bones that will be carried to his offspring and if an ewe, it will help her to give birth easier.  The same goes for the ewe, as she must be strong in her legs to carry the weight of the ram in mating.  As we have discussed walking ability we can just add that the hind legs must be looked at with the critical eye.  The hind legs must be strong and cow- or bow hocks are undesirable according to degree and perpendicular and sickle hocks are cull faults.  Sickle hocks are where the animal walks with it’s hind legs too far forward and then actually battles too walk.  Perpendicular hock and weak pasterns goes hand in hand.  Look at the sketches and you will see that long pasterns are more prone to collapse than short pasterns.  The animal stands more on its feet when the pasterns are short.  We judge weak pasterns on degree but be assured that if the dewclaw is touching the ground, it will be a cull.  There are another twelve points to consider in judging.

 

Reproductive Organs

This factory we are investing in can’t produce if the process is not started somewhere.  The reproductive organs are small, but this is where the whole process begins.  I have never seen an area so much neglected and yet so important.

Definition: well-shaped udder and reproductive organs are essential in the ewe.  The scrotum of the ram should not be too long and the testicles should be of equal size and not too small.  Any abnormalities in the testicles are cull faults.

 

I have seen well-developed udders that can’t produce milk.  In young ewes you don’t have much of a choice than to mate them and see how she produces.  Make a point of investigating each ewe for a healthy udder after the first lamb before mating her again.  Do not breed with ewes that can’t raise their lambs.  Spend your time on the things that really matter.  Remember that the growth in the lamb the first month or two determines the milk production and mothering qualities.  Take notes, mark them and improve your system’s effectiveness.  As far as well-developed reproductive organs (ewes) are concerned, it is true that the ewes with well-developed reproductive organs tend to produce more regularly and give birth easier.  This doesn’t mean that a ewe with under developed reproductive organs wouldn’t lamb.  Pigmentation or a sign of pigmentation is a good trait on the teats of the ewe, which indicates a stronger skin.

 

Pigmentation on the reproductive organs of the ewe or indication on the white Dorper is essential as the sun can really burn them.  If burnt, and the ram wants to cover the ewe, the ewe tends to move away.  Do not trade re-productive ability for ignoring lack of pigmentation.

 

The scrotum of the ram should not be too long as this can hook on shrubs and get hurt when running, etc.  This is something that is barely seen but be aware.  The testes should be of equal size and have a good circumference measurement.  You will immediately ask what is too small?  A ram lamb of ten months should have a tests circumference of at least 30 cm.  For 2-tooth 32 cm, 4-tooth 33 cm, 6-tooth and older 34 cm.  This measurement should be done in a sitting position.  Good overall size testes, which don’t hang much lower than the hock is the ideal.  The correct procedure however is to have the testes examined and a sperm count done.  It wouldn’t help to have everything in order and an infertile or low sperm count ram.  It is important to note that semen is very sensitive to heat.  A lot of conditions can influence the body temperature of the ram.  The semen temperature is controlled by the lowering of the testes for cooling or to pull the testes closer to the body for increasing the temperature.  Therefore, if the shape and elasticity of the scrotum is not up to standard, you can end up with a low sperm count.  Also inspect the ram at the sheath and the penis itself for penis infection before mating starts.

This is a very simple check.  With the ram in a sitting position, push its penis forward through the sheath.  Infection is easily detected.  If you breed rams, have the young rams inoculated against brucellosis.  This is very important and the earlier it is done the better resistance they build up.  Uneven testes can be from infection and should be watched closely and treated by a veterinarian if it is not too late.  Another very uncommon occurrence is twisted testes or 45 degrees testes.  A split in the testes is undesirable and only a split of 1.5 cm in depth is allowed although we work towards a nil split.  A good pigmentation on the sheath is the ideal.  Remember that re-production is essential to stay financial happy.  There are another ten points to consider when judging animals.

 

Now we have come to the last aspect of conformation

General appearance:  The sheep must be symmetrical and the body parts balanced in proportion to each other.  A calm temperament with a vigorous appearance is the ideal.

The next is size or growth rate (symbol G)

This is a very contentious issue as many think that we are selling the carcass for money and the bigger the more money.  The definition discriminates against this ideology, because through experience we have found that the big animal or the extreme small animal is not the most economical animal.  What we want is exactly what the definition say and those that have tried to divert from this concept were brought back by experience and expensive mistakes.

Definition:  A sheep with a good weight (mass) for its age is the ideal.  Discriminate against extremely small or extremely big animals.

 

The ideal for slaughter lamb production is to have a live carcass with the ideal fat distribution weighing plus minus 40kg, at between 4 and 5 months.  This depends on feeding, and under favorable conditions this weight can be achieved between 3 and 4 months.  Get them off your hand to make space for the next generation and more grazing for the producing ewes.

 

Distribution of fat (Symbol D)

The fat distribution in the Dorper is so perfect that little has to be done on this aspect.  The problem arises when breeders disregard the past 50 years of experience that went into this breed and put back Persian rams, van Rooy blood rams etc. onto their pure bred Dorpers to “improve” them.  Yes, they may get the crossbred growth, but with lambs that are downgraded with lumps (localization) of fat.  In the meantime, it is forgotten that the offspring of this cross can’t be used again in your flock as color, hair and breed standards are off type.  Now, if you need to have more fat or leaner meat on the lambs use the correct type of Dorper or white Dorper ram.  You will be surprised at the results, and your flock stays pure.  Having said that, and looking at the illustration, you can see how little is in it.  Please don’t spoil it.

Definition: Too much localization of fat on any part of the body (see circles) is undesirable.  An even distribution of a thin layer of fat over the carcass and between the muscle fibers is the ideal.  The sheep must be firm and muscular when handled.

 

Remember that conformation, size and fat distribution are the primary aspects where only a 4 or 5 point is accepted for studding animals.

 

 

Color Pattern Dorper

This is the only aspect where you have different standards for the Dorper and white Dorper respectively.  We will first do the Dorper (black head) and then the white Dorper.  To help understand the color, there is a color cut-off line, which cuts the animal into two sections.  The reason for this was eye appeal and inbreeding aspects.  Take the color as a challenge as it puts the Dorper in it’s own class.  More importantly, concentrate on the more economical aspects B, G and D.  The color and covering will be in place, as the leaders would have concentrated on them already.  For explanation, we will refer to the sketches all the time.  The cut-off line is the same for both Dorpers and White Dorpers.

Color pattern cut-off line: follow the /// stripes on the animal.

1. On the hock: you will find a little bone on the outside of the hock and below this is considered being on the underline.  It forms an imaginary circle around the leg.

2. Under the knee: we take the bottom of the loose knee bone and beneath this is the same as on the hock.

3. Now we take the underside of the body and the imaginary line as you see it on both sides.  When you see the animal it is very clearly defined and runs to the front, but no further than the rear of the front legs.  At the rear, and as far as the junction of the front side of the scrotum on a ram.  If the scrotum is black and it is pigmentation i.e. only skin, it is allowed, but if the scrotum is black through short hair, it is not part of the underline.

4. In ewes, this underline goes up to the reproductive organs of the ewe.

 

 

Let us look at the color pattern (Symbol P)

 

P5: this is the ideal color we want. White sheep with black head or head and neck, no further than where it will touch the shoulder or breastbone at the front. Complete pigmentation on anus or reproductive organs and the hoofs.

P4: White sheep with black limited to head and neck with loose black spots on neck not touching shoulders or breast. Also a blaze, white patch or a split in the black, not extending further than the horn base running from the back. A limited amount of specs on the underline.  Specs mean a few hairs together that turned black and are not upsetting to the eye. 100mm diameter patch (plus minus palm of hand) at sheath of ram. 100 mm diameter patch on reproductive organs of ewe or rectum of ram. Loose spots or color in contact with chest or shoulder, and on the upper forearm, above the knee, falls under P3. This is also true for spots on the underline.

P3:

As this is the last section to allow for stud, there is quite an increase in the amount of color allowed.  Take note as you study the description on the illustration that the whole forequarter can be black, not extending past the rear of the shoulder and an artificial line taken over the back.  Also note that the black may not extend on the chest, past the rear of the back of the shoulders.  In case the color projects through past the chest and past the artificial line at the rear of the shoulder, only a spot of 10 cm (4”) is allowed, but then no further spots as described in “G.”  A big spot is very often spotted on the reproductive organs of the ewe, but note the shape of the spot is oblong and must not be wider than 100mm (4”).  Take note of the explanation in “D” where there must be a break in color on the knee if the front leg is black.  Look at explanation “H” and you will see that a white blaze is allowed and in this case, extends beyond the horn base in the front.  Thus, if the head is black with a blaze extending past the horn base, with no other black anywhere, the pointing will be a P3.  A through blaze where the black head is divided in two or white around the eyes also degrades the pointing to P2.  The black on both ears together must be more than 50% to qualify for P3.  Also take note of show requirements and pigmentation differences in ewes and rams.

 

 

 

P2:

Once you have mastered P3, this is easier – especially after having worked practically with the sheep.

P1:

This speaks for itself and if you look, it means that if you judge Dorpers and see white sheep, even if it qualifies under White Dorper standards, it becomes a cull.

 

 

Color Pattern White Dorper

If you follow the illustration on the White Dorper, you will find it very easy.  Note: brown is regarded as pigmentation and must be looked for on the eyelids, which is usually pink if no pigmentation is evident.  (The picture on the left below is regarded as fully pigmented.)  This also holds good for pigmentation on reproductive organs or the anus of the ram.  Pigmentation is important to prevent sunburn.  The soft exposed areas and ears can form cancer if no pigmentation is evident.

 

P5:

a)   A white sheep with no hair or wool of any other color in its covering.

b)   Completely pigmented brown or black eyelids (See illustration on sketch.)

c)   There must be an indication of pigment under the tail or around the reproductive organs.

d)   Brown or red eyelashes are permissible.

e)   Color may appear on the hoofs.

 

 

P4:

a)   A white sheep with a limited number of black, brown or other colored speckles, confined to the covering of the ears and underline.

b)   At least 50% of the eyelids (see sketch) must be pigmented in both ewes and rams, with an indication of pigment on each eyelid.

c)   Red or brown eyelashes permissible

 

 

P3:

a)   White sheep with a limited amount of black, brown or other colored speckles in the covering, confined to the head and underline.

b)   Specks on head and underline, collectively, not to exceed 10cm (4”) in diameter.

c)   A single black or brown spot not exceeding 10 cm (4”) on the neck or forequarter permissible.

d)   At least 25% of the eyelids must be pigmented in both ewes and rams, and it may appear on one or both eyes.

e)   Brown or red eyelashes are permissible.

 

Again, it is easy to remember from the illustration: more color allowed – 10 cm (4”) in total.  Small and loose patches on the head and underline and/or a 10 cm (4”) spot on the neck or forequarter is allowed.  Only 25% pigmentation on the eyelids is allowed.  Summary: for P5-100% pigmentation, P4-50% and P3-25% is enough.  No color on the sheep for P5, a few specs on the underline and ears for P4, and not more than 10 cm (4”) on the head, forequarter and underline for P3.

 

We are going for commercial animals in color, and once you know the stud side, and just think that any more color becomes a P2, it becomes easy to understand.  Remember to look for indication of pigment on either of the eyelids.

 

P2:

a)   A white sheep with black, brown or other colored speckles and bigger brown or red spots than described in P3, limited to the head, neck and underline.

b)   No pigmentation on the eyelids is acceptable.

 

 

 

 

P1:

a)   A white sheep with more and/or bigger black, brown or other color speckles or patches as described in P2, on the body.

b)   A sheep with one or both eyes blue.

 

Note:  Ram and ewe lambs under 60 kg and 50 kg respectively, must have an indication of pigment on the eyelids.  As with the Dorper, blue eyes indicates a cull.

 

 

Covering:

 

If we look at human beings and see how dressing can change our view, it is the same for the Dorper.  We want a beautiful, clean animal, which we could love, and therefore care better for.  The ideal covering, H5, is the ultimate to please the eye.  If you invest in this type of covering you will find good shedding and an animal that is very appealing to everyone.  No wonder we have such a beautiful, soft definition for the ideal covering.

 

H5:

Definition: short, loose, light mixture of hair and wool with a natural clean kemp underline.  (“Kemp” is the very short hair.)

 

H4:

Definition: short, loose, light covering of hair and wool with wool predominating on forequarter and with a natural clean underline.

 

H3:  This is the last covering permissible for stud animals.  Take note of this covering, as shedding will be less and appearance my start suffering.  H3 can actually be divided into two parts; the more woolly type and the more hairy type.  An apron now also qualifies under the H3 rating.  On a practical note, H3 appeals to the eye when the covering is sheared or trimmed very short – you can however be disappointed when the covering grows out again, and an untidy appearance is the result!  This aspect is often overlooked when groomed animals are being sold on auction.

Definition:  Short, loose covering of predominately wool or soft fine hair with perceptible kemp on the outer thigh.  The word “light” is taken out of the definition and the underline is not clean but more woolly or hairy.  A soft light mane or apron is allowed.

 

H2:  This rating is not for stud animals, but flock animals, and from the definition you will see that it tends to be a more unpleasant covering.

1. Almost exclusively coarse hair with apron

2. Almost exclusively wool and very dense.

 

H1:  This speaks for itself and is not good looking.  (Remember that this looks like an H2, but there is now no mixture of wool and hair – H1 is either all wool, or either all hair.)

1. Exclusively coarse hair.

2. Exclusively wool (long and dense)

3. A coarse hair mane

 

With all types of covering we prefer a thick skin.  A think skin shows pinkish ness and can be felt in the flank.

 

Discriminate in covering of the following aspects:

1. Denseness and length of covering.

2. Long growth on the underline of matured sheep.

3. Covering too sparse.  When covering is too sparse under severe dessert sun conditions, the skin on the backbone will scorch and the covering will not grow again in that area.

 

Note: Be careful in lambs; they get their “real” covering only after their first matured shedding, which happens at around 12 months of age.

 

Type

We have built the sheep from head to tail and now get to the most important decision to make.  We always talk about this and that type of person and now we want to establish the type of the animal.  It is not always easy to determine type, especially if you stand on top or close to an animal.  To determine type, it is advisable to stand a few yards back and look at the picture in front of you.  Remember that you have already pointed this animal for possible deficiencies and type must adhere to possible deficiencies.  For instance, you can have a short bottom jaw but a beautiful type.  Don’t let type overrule deficiencies but be consistent and precise on type.  The definition says it all:

 

Definition: This is determined by considering all the aspects of the Breed Standards.  The general appearance and impression must be that of a truly ennobled Dorper sheep with masculinity in the ram and femininity in the ewe.

 

For examination purposes, the following weighting of values will be used for the different characteristics:

Conformation Size Fat Color Covering* Type Selection Total = 3 = 2 = 1 = 1 = 1 = 3 = 4 = 15 points important to be correct important to be correct lesser skill to determine lesser economical value lesser economical value important to be correct important to be correct (Be sure you understand the important issues)

* Covering is an aspect that may be much more important than it appears, since shedding is very important for keeping labor costs down, and appearance is your presentation to potential buyers of your sheep.  Only in commercial flocks will this aspect be of lesser importance.  A good skin with the ideal covering makes an excellent “glover” skin – used in the manufacture of gloves and high-end leather products.  You will find the ideal covering skin an important part of your income!  With H5 and H4 types of skin you can be certain of the highest demand skin.

 

Dorper Skins

• Dorper skins are regarded among the best in the world.  It has no wrinkles and a smooth grain.  It is used in the manufacture of high quality leather clothes and gloves.

• These skins are a sought-after export product, and few Dorper skins are used locally in the leather industry.  Pickled Dorpers skins are mostly sold for export at good prices.

• The grain of the skin takes up half of the total thickness of the skin.  Glands are not well developed in the grain, as the grain consists of a network of strong collagen fibers.  This network of collagen fibers makes the leather exceptionally strong.  Collagen is the material that forms the leather.

• A sheepskin with a lot of hair closely resembles a goatskin.  The fibers of a Dorperskin are delicate, but the skin structure is tighter and denser than that of goatskins or woolskins.  The weave angle of Dorper skin fibers is flat – a feature that strengthens the leather further.

 

(Information supplied by the South African Meat Board)